How to choose the right wave

Choosing The Right Wave

First of all be selective, only paddle for waves that will prove fruitful. There is know point in expending energy chasing "flat" swells (we will learn more about "flats" swells later). Choosing the right wave will not only save your strength but also increase your enjoyment on the day.


Positioning
You will substantially improve the consistency of catching the wave you are paddling for, if you position yourself correctly.

Place yourself in a position so as to be able to catch the wave at its peak, that is where the wave initially breaks. Thus, giving you the optimum chance of catching  a good wave and achieving a more enjoyable and longer ride. You need  be far enough from the beach so as to catch the unbroken wave and avoid the wave breaking on your head.

Be positive
Paddle positively when positioning for the wave. Paddling tentatively usually results in the surfer drifting around around the break. Try to catch the wave just before it breaks.
You will also find it much easier to get up on an unbroken wave. Timing is crucial and is something you will learn the more you practice.

As the wave approaches -you need to be facing the shore. Start paddling and at the same time keep an eye on the wave behind you so you can judge when when the wave will arrive. You should aim to be paddling at full speed by the time the wave catches you. At this point you will feel your speed increase and you should angle your board towards the unbroken part of the wave, continue paddling until you are certain the wave has you and then just pop up !

Which Wave To Paddle For ?
You will need to recognise which waves to paddle for. The are three basic kinds of unbroken swells.


Flat swells 
These are exactly as they sound... Flat in appearance and not formed enough for you to want to catch a ride. Chasing flat swells will result in wasted energy, loss of position and a good chance that the following wave will land on your head.




Pitching Swells
These waves have past their prime time for you to catch them. Chasing these will result in the wave crashing on your head and usually a wipeout.





Half-Built Swells
These are the waves for you,  A Half-built swell is basically between the two above - not too flat, but not too formed that it is about to crash. Learning to identify a half-built swell will result in greater consistency in catching a wave. Again timing is the key and of course ... Practise makes perfect. 

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Watch Surfing instructor's  Andy Bottomley informative video on how to read a wave (below) for further advice

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